When you have chosen the pattern and fabric do you actually see the finished garment in your mind? I do, most of the time, and the more I sew the more I find I can do this, see the finished garment in my minds' eye, like a photograph, then I know it will work. I call this having a vision. Well, dear reader, this whole foray into Japanese Drape Drape is because I can see my little Japanese dress made up in some uncharacteristically (for me) expensive silk from Tessuti. I am a bit wary of cutting into expensive woven fabric using a pattern designed for knits without doing a muslin first. Make that muslins, plural. This pipe dream of mine has led me a merry dance.
Normally when switching from a knit to a woven it is just a matter of going up a size, so I started with more ease along the centre back seams and centre front fold.
Woven muslin no1.
The first 'woven' alteration is on the left. The "I'll extend the sleeve and drop the gathering point" is on the right. This did not work. I still had to do something about the bust area and bring the waist seam back up a bit.
Woven muslin no2.
That's me. Oh dear. At least I won't miss the material. Back to the drawing board again.
Version two revisited. As you can see I lengthened the dress to a more age appropriate level and took out a bit of the skirt gathers. I raised the waist seam level back up a bit. The most important thing I did was add a vertical wedge from armpit to waist which gave me a bit of bust ease and also allowed me to tilt the bodice area slightly and expand the front of the sleeve even more. Why am I worrying over this pattern like a dog with a bone? Stay tuned for the next installment, dear reader. I'm getting sick of this myself and just want to finish it already and move on to some quick and easy spring sewing. I just have to see this through to its natural conclusion - the dreaded silk.
Meanwhile, this is almost what I had in mind..
Woven muslin no3.
Wearable. A little tweak and it's onto the silk..
Happy sewing everybody.